While I was living and teaching German in New York in 1979, an article describing the Nullarbor Plain captivated my attention. It focused in particular on the legendary 'tea & sugar' train that ran on a weekly schedule to supply the isolated communities along the Indian-Pacific railway line.
The story fascinated me so much that I decided that one day I would visit that part of the Australian outback.
Along “The Line” - a fundraising ride for The Royal Flying Doctor Service
Other horse adventures distracted me and it was not until I concluded the BNT ride on Valentine's Day 1991, that the Nullarbor nudged at me again. As I stood looking at the glassy waters of a picturesque Endeavour Bay, I reflected on this other part of Australia - the supposedly dry, featureless and treeless plain of the Nullarbor. 'Some day', I thought to myself. Some day!
Although I had ridden thousands of kilometres in different countries, this was to be my first trip overt he driest and most barren land I’d ever seen - the Nullarbor Plain.
'Nullarbor', deriving from the Latin nullo and arbor, means treeless plain - and it certainly is. It rises 100 metres on high cliffs above the waters of the Great Australian Bight. Once covered by an inland sea, the Nullarbor is now covered with endless salt bush and blue bush, bisected only by the silvery band of the trans-continental railway line. Could I really coax my mule and buggy to cross that lonely wilderness?
Our Nullarbor team and the buggy
Sparkle, the mule. He must be the most loveable, affectionate and independent-minded companion I've ever travelled with.
During our last trek he was able to test his headstrong mind, cunning thinking and sheer physical strength. Though he has matured a bit since his last trek along the BNT, his mind will always be something to reckon with. He was however, a natural in harness driving, giving me reason to believe that we would be equal mates on our upcoming adventure.
Yakka, our red heeler pup, was three months old when we set out on our trek. Cute, shy and cuddly, he soon displayed all the courage, endurance, intelligence for which cattle dogs are known - as well as a spirit of adventure.
The buggy - This buggy was especially designed - and handcrafted throughout - for our 3-months/1700km long fundraising journey
Specs: 8 feet long and 5 feet wide with two roller bearing axles and two elliptic springs. The vehicle was of lightweight metal design with four rubber-tyred hand-welded steel wheels.
The hood is designed from leather-like material with beautiful lining and could be lowered in 2 different settings or completely be removed. There are 3 windows in the hood originating from an antique buggy, they are sewn into a separate flap that can be rolled up or let down and fastened by Velcro strips. The seat upholstery is from leather-like material.
Weight 260 kg.
An under-floor compartment (box) allows for extra storage.
Everything of the buggy is virtually handcrafted (yes, even the wheels) and can only be regarded as a piece of art.
This buggy is now for sale. Part of the proceeds still to be donated to the RFDS.
1st June 1997 - Let's Get Rolling
The Emblem of the Royal Flying Doctor Service. The RFDS has 23 air bases and was founded in 1928.
The dingo fence, or dog fence. At 5,532km it is the longest dingo fence in the world.
Climb every sand dune. The most arduous day was when we climbed 56 of them.
“The Longest Straight”. 477.14km of railway in a dead straight line.
A curious welcoming committee.
COOK, 7th July
7th July - arrival at Cook. 860 kilometres done, halfway across. At the time the town of Cook was a 56-soul strong railway community, truly sitting in the heart of the Nullarbor.
The people of Cook generously donated a $1000 towards my fundraising efforts.
An aerial view of the then 57 soul strong community
24 September, at the border crossing from South Australia to Western Australia.
Coonana Aboriginal Community. Numerous youngsters enjoying ‘a ride’ on Sparkle.
November 8, at the outskirts of Kalgoorlie. Our last day of buggy trekking.
Sunset over “The Line”. Glittering ribbons of steel vanishing into an endless flat horizon.
The fundraising helpers.
This motley lot of teddies and stuffed animals were donated by Clubs and communities and auctioned off at a proper auction at our arrival in Kalgoorlie. One of the teddies raised $250! I kept the one given to me by the railway workers in Port Augusta as a Good Luck charm.
Flynn, the teddy bear.
He was presented to me by a group of railway workers as we left Port Augusta, all dressed up and with an Indian-Pacific Railway tie and railway badges. Flynn sat next to me throughout our journey and is still with me to this day.